DC73 said:
... My bad experience with them primarily involved two old multi-turn valves...
For more information, please visit our website.
Click to expand...
Yeah, those totally sucked. Multi-turn shutoffs suck. The ones with brass stems corrode and get stuck. I've been left with too many knobs in my hand when a plastic stemmed valve twists off.
I have only seen two types of issues in quarter turn valves. Either the packing needs a little tigtening (usually a result of overheating), or major damage caused by overheating. Other than that, they don't really seem to fail much.
DC73 said:
Another question.
At the sink location, I'll be installing a small under-sink water heater for hand washing.
Knowing that I prefer to sweat a fitting onto the supply line, how would you create a "tee" so that I can have a separate 1/4 turn valve for both the cold water line and the line going to the water heater?
Do they actually make a tee that sweats onto the supply line and has threaded connections on the two ends of the tee?
I know I can make something up using copper pipe, elbows and other fittings, but wondered if there was an off the shelf solution.
Thanks,
DC
Click to expand...
That would be awesome, but I've never seen it. I think the best choice would be to sweat on a male fitting, and screw a bronze tee onto that. Just beware that it may be difficult to "clock" the tee into the way you want, if it doesn't get tight in the right place. Whatever you do, don't get it tight, and then back off to the angle desired. NEVER back off an NPT fitting, unless you intend to take it apart. If you need it to fit a little tighter to clock right, you can apply a thin film of pipe dope into the male threads, then wrap with a heavy duty teflon tape (anything but the white stuff), and then apply some more dope on top of that.
In my kitchen, I have four shutoffs, two on the hot line (one for the supply to the sink and one for the dishwasher), and two on the cold (one for the sink, and one for the water filter). Because the lines would interfere if I used tees with both outlets facing horizontally, I sweated an F shape onto each using a tee sideways and an elbow a the top that forms the F (elbow wasn't really necessary, but kept my connections away from the back-side of the sink where accessibility is more difficult.
theoldwizard1 said:
My son re-piped his whole house with PEX. He used PEX for the stub outs. If I ever do a major re-piping or build new, I will use those PEX-to-copper stub outs and then compression....
If you have a drip at the compression fitting, loosen and wrap the back side of the "olive" with Teflon tape.
For more information, please visit kairuite.
Click to expand...
You like PEX stubouts? I'm kind of on the fence about this.
I'm not crazy the idea of sealing a PEX connection in the wall if it can be avoided (though PEX is growing on me), but I also don't like the flexibility and damageability of a PEX stubout.
The most solid PEX connections I've seen, terminated the pex at a drop elbow screwed into wood in the wall behind the install, and a threaded brass nipple leading out to the shutoff. It's done just like a shower head.
The other option would be to get a shutoff that goes right into the PEX.
I'd do either of these to avoid compression.
Yes, I've seen the teflon tape on compression trick. Never seen it used successfully. Personally, I think teflon tape has no use on compression olives, flare surfaces, and union mating surfaces. BUT I know something that CAN be used on all these cases (in those occasional times when the metal-to-metal is giving you trouble) with much greater odds of success. A teflon pipe-dope crayon.
Yeah, those totally sucked. Multi-turn shutoffs suck. The ones with brass stems corrode and get stuck. I've been left with too many knobs in my hand when a plastic stemmed valve twists off.I have only seen two types of issues in quarter turn valves. Either the packing needs a little tigtening (usually a result of overheating), or major damage caused by overheating. Other than that, they don't really seem to fail much.That would be awesome, but I've never seen it. I think the best choice would be to sweat on a male fitting, and screw a bronze tee onto that. Just beware that it may be difficult to "clock" the tee into the way you want, if it doesn't get tight in the right place. Whatever you do, don't get it tight, and then back off to the angle desired. NEVER back off an NPT fitting, unless you intend to take it apart. If you need it to fit a little tighter to clock right, you can apply a thin film of pipe dope into the male threads, then wrap with a heavy duty teflon tape (anything but the white stuff), and then apply some more dope on top of that.In my kitchen, I have four shutoffs, two on the hot line (one for the supply to the sink and one for the dishwasher), and two on the cold (one for the sink, and one for the water filter). Because the lines would interfere if I used tees with both outlets facing horizontally, I sweated an F shape onto each using a tee sideways and an elbow a the top that forms the F (elbow wasn't really necessary, but kept my connections away from the back-side of the sink where accessibility is more difficult.You like PEX stubouts? I'm kind of on the fence about this.I'm not crazy the idea of sealing a PEX connection in the wall if it can be avoided (though PEX is growing on me), but I also don't like the flexibility and damageability of a PEX stubout.The most solid PEX connections I've seen, terminated the pex at a drop elbow screwed into wood in the wall behind the install, and a threaded brass nipple leading out to the shutoff. It's done just like a shower head.The other option would be to get a shutoff that goes right into the PEX.I'd do either of these to avoid compression.Yes, I've seen the teflon tape on compression trick. Never seen it used successfully. Personally, I think teflon tape has no use on compression olives, flare surfaces, and union mating surfaces. BUT I know something that CAN be used on all these cases (in those occasional times when the metal-to-metal is giving you trouble) with much greater odds of success. A teflon pipe-dope crayon.
Suggested reading:10 Questions You Should Know about Rubber Lined Diaphragm Valve
I want to repalce the the existing T valves with something better. 1/4 turn ball valves is what most recommend.
I assume an "angle stop" valve is different from a ball valve. I'll goggle that term and see what it is. The plumbing pros here were recommending 1/4 turn ball valves on another post. Is there such a thing as a 1/4 turn angle stop ball valve?
Thanks
From the Watts webpage (just under "bronze")
B, B
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)
View Details
B-SS
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Stainless Steel Ball & Stem
Size(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)
View Details
B-04-SS
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Stainless Steel Ball & Stem
Size(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)
View Details
B
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Male NPT Threads at One End
Size(s): 1/4 to 1 in. (8 to 25mm)
View Details
B, B, B
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Union Connections
Size(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)
View Details
B, B
2-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)
View Details
B
2-Piece, Standard Port, Threaded One-Way Bronze Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)
View Details
B
Unibody, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)
View Details
B, B
2-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball & Waste Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/2 to 1 in. (15 to 25mm)
View Details
B
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Actuator Mounting Pads
Size(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)
View Details
B-SE
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Safety Exhaust
Size(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)
View Details
B, B
2-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Diverter Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)
View Details
FBV
2-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)
I appreciate your advice. I am concerend about PB piping in my house but so far it has not leaked (knock on wood). I've been in this house since it was new (built in ). When it becomes time to deal with replumbing the house, if ever, I'll come back here for more advice. For now, I'm remodeling the master bath.I want to repalce the the existing T valves with something better. 1/4 turn ball valves is what most recommend.I assume an "angle stop" valve is different from a ball valve. I'll goggle that term and see what it is. The plumbing pros here were recommending 1/4 turn ball valves on another post. Is there such a thing as a 1/4 turn angle stop ball valve?ThanksFrom the Watts webpage (just under "bronze") http://www.watts.com/pro/_products_sub.asp?catId=64&parCat=75 B, B-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)View DetailsB-SS2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Stainless Steel Ball & StemSize(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)View DetailsB-04-SS2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Stainless Steel Ball & StemSize(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)View DetailsB-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Male NPT Threads at One EndSize(s): 1/4 to 1 in. (8 to 25mm)View DetailsB, B, B-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Union ConnectionsSize(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)View DetailsB, B-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)View DetailsB-Piece, Standard Port, Threaded One-Way Bronze Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)View DetailsBUnibody, Standard Port, Bronze Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)View DetailsB, B-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball & Waste Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/2 to 1 in. (15 to 25mm)View DetailsB-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Actuator Mounting PadsSize(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)View DetailsB-SE2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Safety ExhaustSize(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)View DetailsB, B-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Diverter Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)View DetailsFBV2-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)
Plumbing: Best 1/4 Turn Supply Valve?
DC73 said:
... My bad experience with them primarily involved two old multi-turn valves...
Click to expand...
Yeah, those totally sucked. Multi-turn shutoffs suck. The ones with brass stems corrode and get stuck. I've been left with too many knobs in my hand when a plastic stemmed valve twists off.
I have only seen two types of issues in
quarter turn valves. Either the packing needs a little tigtening (usually a result of overheating), or major damage caused by overheating. Other than that, they don't really seem to fail much.
DC73 said:
Another question.
At the sink location, I'll be installing a small under-sink water heater for hand washing.
Knowing that I prefer to sweat a fitting onto the supply line, how would you create a "tee" so that I can have a separate 1/4 turn valve for both the cold water line and the line going to the water heater?
Do they actually make a tee that sweats onto the supply line and has threaded connections on the two ends of the tee?
I know I can make something up using copper pipe, elbows and other fittings, but wondered if there was an off the shelf solution.
Thanks,
DC
Click to expand...
That would be awesome, but I've never seen it. I think the best choice would be to sweat on a male fitting, and screw a bronze tee onto that. Just beware that it may be difficult to "clock" the tee into the way you want, if it doesn't get tight in the right place. Whatever you do, don't get it tight, and then back off to the angle desired. NEVER back off an NPT fitting, unless you intend to take it apart. If you need it to fit a little tighter to clock right, you can apply a thin film of pipe dope into the male threads, then wrap with a heavy duty teflon tape (anything but the white stuff), and then apply some more dope on top of that.
In my kitchen, I have four shutoffs, two on the hot line (one for the supply to the sink and one for the dishwasher), and two on the cold (one for the sink, and one for the water filter). Because the lines would interfere if I used tees with both outlets facing horizontally, I sweated an F shape onto each using a tee sideways and an elbow a the top that forms the F (elbow wasn't really necessary, but kept my connections away from the back-side of the sink where accessibility is more difficult.
theoldwizard1 said:
My son re-piped his whole house with PEX. He used PEX for the stub outs. If I ever do a major re-piping or build new, I will use those PEX-to-copper stub outs and then compression....
If you have a drip at the compression fitting, loosen and wrap the back side of the "olive" with Teflon tape.
Click to expand...
You like PEX stubouts? I'm kind of on the fence about this.
I'm not crazy the idea of sealing a PEX connection in the wall if it can be avoided (though PEX is growing on me), but I also don't like the flexibility and damageability of a PEX stubout.
The most solid PEX connections I've seen, terminated the pex at a drop elbow screwed into wood in the wall behind the install, and a threaded brass nipple leading out to the shutoff. It's done just like a shower head.
The other option would be to get a shutoff that goes right into the PEX.
I'd do either of these to avoid compression.
Yes, I've seen the teflon tape on compression trick. Never seen it used successfully. Personally, I think teflon tape has no use on compression olives, flare surfaces, and union mating surfaces. BUT I know something that CAN be used on all these cases (in those occasional times when the metal-to-metal is giving you trouble) with much greater odds of success. A teflon pipe-dope crayon.
Yeah, those totally sucked. Multi-turn shutoffs suck. The ones with brass stems corrode and get stuck. I've been left with too many knobs in my hand when a plastic stemmed valve twists off.I have only seen two types of issues in quarter turn valves. Either the packing needs a little tigtening (usually a result of overheating), or major damage caused by overheating. Other than that, they don't really seem to fail much.That would be awesome, but I've never seen it. I think the best choice would be to sweat on a male fitting, and screw a bronze tee onto that. Just beware that it may be difficult to "clock" the tee into the way you want, if it doesn't get tight in the right place. Whatever you do, don't get it tight, and then back off to the angle desired. NEVER back off an NPT fitting, unless you intend to take it apart. If you need it to fit a little tighter to clock right, you can apply a thin film of pipe dope into the male threads, then wrap with a heavy duty teflon tape (anything but the white stuff), and then apply some more dope on top of that.In my kitchen, I have four shutoffs, two on the hot line (one for the supply to the sink and one for the dishwasher), and two on the cold (one for the sink, and one for the water filter). Because the lines would interfere if I used tees with both outlets facing horizontally, I sweated an F shape onto each using a tee sideways and an elbow a the top that forms the F (elbow wasn't really necessary, but kept my connections away from the back-side of the sink where accessibility is more difficult.You like PEX stubouts? I'm kind of on the fence about this.I'm not crazy the idea of sealing a PEX connection in the wall if it can be avoided (though PEX is growing on me), but I also don't like the flexibility and damageability of a PEX stubout.The most solid PEX connections I've seen, terminated the pex at a drop elbow screwed into wood in the wall behind the install, and a threaded brass nipple leading out to the shutoff. It's done just like a shower head.The other option would be to get a shutoff that goes right into the PEX.I'd do either of these to avoid compression.Yes, I've seen the teflon tape on compression trick. Never seen it used successfully. Personally, I think teflon tape has no use on compression olives, flare surfaces, and union mating surfaces. BUT I know something that CAN be used on all these cases (in those occasional times when the metal-to-metal is giving you trouble) with much greater odds of success. A teflon pipe-dope crayon.
Which 1/4 turn ball valves to get?
I want to repalce the the existing T valves with something better. 1/4 turn ball valves is what most recommend.
I assume an "angle stop" valve is different from a ball valve. I'll goggle that term and see what it is. The plumbing pros here were recommending 1/4 turn ball valves on another post. Is there such a thing as a 1/4 turn angle stop ball valve?
Thanks
From the Watts webpage (just under "bronze")
B, B
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)
View Details
B-SS
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Stainless Steel Ball & Stem
Size(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)
View Details
B-04-SS
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Stainless Steel Ball & Stem
Size(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)
View Details
B
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Male NPT Threads at One End
Size(s): 1/4 to 1 in. (8 to 25mm)
View Details
B, B, B
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Union Connections
Size(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)
View Details
B, B
2-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)
View Details
B
2-Piece, Standard Port, Threaded One-Way Bronze Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)
View Details
B
Unibody, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)
View Details
B, B
2-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball & Waste Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/2 to 1 in. (15 to 25mm)
View Details
B
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Actuator Mounting Pads
Size(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)
View Details
B-SE
2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Safety Exhaust
Size(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)
View Details
B, B
2-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Diverter Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)
View Details
FBV
2-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball Valves
Size(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)
I appreciate your advice. I am concerend about PB piping in my house but so far it has not leaked (knock on wood). I've been in this house since it was new (built in ). When it becomes time to deal with replumbing the house, if ever, I'll come back here for more advice. For now, I'm remodeling the master bath.I want to repalce the the existing T valves with something better. 1/4 turn ball valves is what most recommend.I assume an "angle stop" valve is different from a ball valve. I'll goggle that term and see what it is. The plumbing pros here were recommending 1/4 turn ball valves on another post. Is there such a thing as a 1/4 turn angle stop ball valve?ThanksFrom the Watts webpage (just under "bronze") http://www.watts.com/pro/_products_sub.asp?catId=64&parCat=75 B, B-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)View DetailsB-SS2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Stainless Steel Ball & StemSize(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)View DetailsB-04-SS2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Stainless Steel Ball & StemSize(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)View DetailsB-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Male NPT Threads at One EndSize(s): 1/4 to 1 in. (8 to 25mm)View DetailsB, B, B-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Union ConnectionsSize(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)View DetailsB, B-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)View DetailsB-Piece, Standard Port, Threaded One-Way Bronze Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)View DetailsBUnibody, Standard Port, Bronze Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)View DetailsB, B-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball & Waste Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/2 to 1 in. (15 to 25mm)View DetailsB-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Actuator Mounting PadsSize(s): 1/4 to 4 in. (8 to 100mm)View DetailsB-SE2-Piece, Standard Port, Bronze Ball Valves with Safety ExhaustSize(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)View DetailsB, B-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Diverter Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/4 to 2 in. (8 to 50mm)View DetailsFBV2-Piece, Full Port, Bronze Ball ValvesSize(s): 1/2 to 2 in. (15 to 50mm)
All Comments ( 0 )