Bench Grinder Wheel Quality

fsdogwood said:

Beside brands, the category of the grinding wheels is important, and it's designated
by I, J, K (but I don't know which is hard, so stays longer...)

JK are exported all over the world and different industries with quality first. Our belief is to provide our customers with more and better high value-added products. Let's create a better future together.

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The lower letter is softer grade but the bond strength (aka holding glue) & engineering spacing of the aluminum oxide or ceramic grain (held in suspension), is just as critical...wrong combination of wheel makeup will break down fast or load up with metal chips in the abrasive grain boundaries and burn the steel...wheel hardness and specific structure is also designed around the proper RPM spindlle speed and infeed rates of surface feet per minute (SFM) stock removal, for a given micro finish output critera, cycle time, & dimensional quality on size tolerance.
- to allow the grinding wheel to hold its shape longer, cut freely and generate less workpiece heat
- stick with standard products, from a quality manufacturer...for the specific application / be in the ball park

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Abrasive specification http://www.adgrind.com/abrasives/wheel_shapes.htm

Different grinding wheel manufactures often use slightly different methods for defining the specification of their own make of wheel. They all generally follow the same type of format using a code made up of letters and numbers relating to different features within the wheel. This code is either marked on the side of the grinding wheel, on the wheel blotter or if the wheels are too small, on an identification card which was sent with the grinding wheel.

For example: - 48A 602 K6V MRAA or 64A60 H15VP

Tip: If you have this information to hand for grinding wheels you currently use it can really help us when quoting or recommending wheels. Even if the wheel you are using is not performing how you would like it to, it gives us a starting point to work from when we need to change certain characteristics of the wheel.

The specification code of the grinding wheel usually consists of six basic parts:

Abrasive Type
The index for the type of abrasive grain used is shown at the beginning of the code.

Abrasive Size (Grit Size)
This defines the size of abrasive grains used in the grinding wheel.
This number can range from between 10 up to 800. The smaller the number, the coarser wheel.

Wheel Grade (hardness)
This letter denotes the grade or hardness of the grinding wheel.
The letters A to Z characterises the degree of hardness with A referring to the softest and Z as the hardest.

Wheel Structure (porosity)
The structure number is shown immediately after the grade letter. This denotes the porosity of the grinding wheel. The higher the number, the more porous is the grinding wheel.

Bond Type
The bond type is defined by a letter immediately after the the structure number. This is the material holding everything together and is usually either 'V' (Vitrified) or 'B' (Resinoid or resin) but there are a few others.

Special Coding (not always used)
On special or 'made to order' wheels there is often an additional bit of code at the end.
This varies between manufactures depending on their special 'recipes' used.

The lower letter is softer grade but the bond strength (aka holding glue) & engineering spacing of the aluminum oxide or ceramic grain (held in suspension), is just as critical...wrong combination of wheel makeup will break down fast or load up with metal chips in the abrasive grain boundaries and burn the steel...wheel hardness and specific structure is also designed around the proper RPM spindlle speed and infeed rates of surface feet per minute (SFM) stock removal, for a given micro finish output critera, cycle time, & dimensional quality on size tolerance.- to allow the grinding wheel to hold its shape longer, cut freely and generate less workpiece heat- stick with standard products, from a quality manufacturer...for the specific application / be in the ball park*************************************************Different grinding wheel manufactures often use slightly different methods for defining the specification of their own make of wheel. They all generally follow the same type of format using a code made up of letters and numbers relating to different features within the wheel. This code is either marked on the side of the grinding wheel, on the wheel blotter or if the wheels are too small, on an identification card which was sent with the grinding wheel.For example: - 48A 602 K6V MRAA or 64A60 H15VPTip: If you have this information to hand for grinding wheels you currently use it can really help us when quoting or recommending wheels. Even if the wheel you are using is not performing how you would like it to, it gives us a starting point to work from when we need to change certain characteristics of the wheel.The specification code of the grinding wheel usually consists of six basic parts:The index for the type of abrasive grain used is shown at the beginning of the code.This defines the size of abrasive grains used in the grinding wheel.This number can range from between 10 up to 800. The smaller the number, the coarser wheel.This letter denotes the grade or hardness of the grinding wheel.The letters A to Z characterises the degree of hardness with A referring to the softest and Z as the hardest.The structure number is shown immediately after the grade letter. This denotes the porosity of the grinding wheel. The higher the number, the more porous is the grinding wheel.The bond type is defined by a letter immediately after the the structure number. This is the material holding everything together and is usually either 'V' (Vitrified) or 'B' (Resinoid or resin) but there are a few others.On special or 'made to order' wheels there is often an additional bit of code at the end.This varies between manufactures depending on their special 'recipes' used.

For more information, please visit cup wheel surface grinder suppliers.

Well as for cleaning the CBN wheels, it varies.... My first set, before the electroplated ones were available, was about 3/16 inch of a CBN matrix bonded to an aluminum hub. Woodcraft used to have a diamond one that was similar. This wheel did need to be cleaned because metal would load up on the surface. The place I got them from gave me some very hard aluminum oxide chunks to clean the wheel off with. I believe it is the same material as offered by a couple of suppliers for the modern electroplated wheels. Personally I won't bother with them, as the only thing they really do is put a lot of ALO dust into the air. The modern CBN wheels don't load up with metal on the surface, unless you grind softer metals on them. What does load up on the surface of the wheel is 'gunk' from the wood you turn. If you turn a lot of wet wood, this can be a bit of a problem. For me, most of the time I don't bother to clean it off. What I do, is regularly apply a bit of lapping fluid or light oil, to the bevel of the tool being sharpened, then sharpen as normal. This does a lot to help lift the gunk off of the surface. Note here, I don't apply the fluid directly to the wheel because it sprays all over the place. This is generally enough to keep the wheel clean enough to still cut well. In the event that you want the wheel to look better, according to Dave Schweitzer, the original owner of D Way, you take the wheel off the grinder, put it in a bucket, cover with water, add detergent, let soak for an hour or two, brush off with a stiff bristle brush, and put back on the grinder. I consider having a bit of 'color' on the wheel to being normal.

In the event that you do get some soft metal on the wheel, you can feel the tool start to bounce as you sharpen. So, to clean that off, again, apply some lapping fluid to the bevel of a heavy scraper, and sharpen the scraper. You may have to do it several times, depending on how badly your wheel is loaded up. I experimented once with an old wheel that was pretty much worn out. I left a very visible stripes of aluminum, copper, brass, and steel on the wheel, then went back to sharpening as normal. All visible traces gone in about a month. Do save an ALO wheel for softer metals though, it just makes things easier.

robo hippy

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