Dec. 09, 2024
Machinery
As home cooks, we rely on our instincts, our knowledge, and our curiosities -- but we also have to rely on our tools. Which is why we're asking the experts about the essential tools we need to make our favorite foods attainable in our own kitchens.
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Today: Forget falling leaves and cable-knit sweaters; the best part about autumn is roasting. Molly Stevens, author of All About Roasting: A New Approach to the Classic, shares the 9 tools you need to roast like a professional.
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Few menu adjectives whet our appetites more than "roasted." Just the mention of the word evokes images of juicy, tender morsels combined with crunchy end bits. Luckily, roasting is one of the most straightforward methods for any home cook&#;s repertoire; all you really need to get started is a working oven and something to roast.
The word roast comes from the French term rôtir (as in rotisserie) and refers to cooking on a turnspit in front of an open flame. Even though some restaurants and enthusiasts adhere to this definition, I relate more to those of us who cook in our home kitchens with everyday equipment. So I am going to skip over the turnspit and open flame and get down to what it takes to get roasting at home.
I&#;ve listed tools that relate directly to roasting -- from a good meat thermometer to a carving board -- but there are other non-specific tools that are useful as well. For instance, any well-equipped kitchen should have a flat-edged wooden spoon for deglazing, a Windsor pan for making gravies and sauces, a pair of locking tongs, plenty of clean, dry kitchen towels, and, of course, a couple of good sharp knives. Aside from those standard must-haves, here are the 9 roasting-specific tools to have around as the season approaches:
1. A reliable meat thermometer
Without a doubt, the trickiest thing about roasting meat -- the only tricky part, really -- is knowing when to stop. While some roasting virtuosos may judge doneness by feel, I recommend outfitting yourself with a reliable meat thermometer to ensure a perfectly cooked roast every time.
The most convenient meat thermometers are thin-stemmed instant-read models, and my personal favorite is this one by Thermapen because it registers the temperature in no time and the digital readout is easy to see. It&#;s splashproof, too.
"Without a doubt, the trickiest thing about roasting meat -- the only tricky part, really -- is knowing when to stop."
Because every oven cooks a little differently, it&#;s always a good idea to check the progress of a roast before the suggested cooking time is up. Insert the thermometer into the thickest part of the roast, being careful not to touch any bone. Once the roast is near your target temperature, check it in a few spots -- not so many as to make a pincushion out of it, but just in two or three places to account for any hot or cool spots.
After using the thermometer, clean and dry it before stashing it in a dry spot where it won&#;t get banged around. I recommend checking its accuracy from time to time by immersing it in an ice bath (32° F) or a pot of boiling water (212° F, depending on the altitude).
2. Heavy-duty rimmed baking sheets
When I started work on my roasting cookbook, I envisioned myself investing in an arsenal of expensive pans to accommodate the various meat, poultry, seafood, and vegetables that I&#;d be roasting. As it turned out, the pans that I most frequently pulled out were heavy-duty rimmed baking sheets (referred to as half-sheet pans in professional kitchens). The greatest advantage of these workhorse pans is that their low sides allow maximum exposure to the hot, dry air circulating around the oven, which means that food browns more readily than it would if it were tucked into a standard high-sided roasting pan.
"I envisioned myself investing in an arsenal of expensive pans to accommodate the various meat, poultry, seafood, and vegetables that I&#;d be roasting. As it turned out, the pans that I most frequently pulled out were heavy-duty rimmed baking sheets."
The best sheets are restaurant-grade weight with a sturdy 1-inch rim (this captures pan drippings and prevents foods from sliding off). Save your non-stick or insulated baking sheets for making cookies. The standard size (around 18 x 12 inches) works well for roasted vegetables and chicken pieces, and I also like to have smaller sizes (16 x 11 and 13 x 9) to accommodate a couple of chops or fish fillets.
The downside of roasting on baking sheets is that it can be awkward to turn the drippings into a pan sauce, as the metal is not designed for stovetop heating. I solve this by scraping the drippings into a small saucepan. I don&#;t recommend using baking sheets for larger roasts, as they are neither deep enough to contain all the drippings nor stable enough to be safe.
More: Deglaze your pan and your on your way to a delicious pan sauce.
3. A sturdy roasting pan
"If you are planning on tackling any of the iconic roasts, such as the holiday turkey, crown roast, leg of lamb, or prime rib, you will need a serious roasting pan."
If you are planning on tackling any of the iconic roasts, such as the holiday turkey, crown roast leg of lamb, or prime rib, you will need a serious roasting pan. The best have fixed handles (not the thin wire bale-type handles) and sides that are about 3 inches high. In terms of material, I like the bright surface of a stainless-steel pan because it makes it easier to see the drippings. The best pans will have a layer of highly conductive metal (copper or aluminum) sandwiched into the metal. This adds to the cost, but luckily, a good roasting pan will last a lifetime.
The size depends on your lifestyle: Do you host big gatherings and want to be able to roast a whole turkey or a prime rib, or do your dinner parties never exceed 6 people? Ideally, the pan should accommodate the roast so that the meat neither touches the pan sides nor leaves a vast amount of exposed surface. If the pan is too large for the roast, a good trick to avoid scorching the drippings is to chop up some vegetables (carrots, onions, and potatoes, for example), coat them with a bit of oil, season, and scatter them around the roast. The vegetables will prevent the pan from drying out and give you a built-in side dish.
More: Learn how to roast any vegetable in only 4 steps.
4. Cast-iron skillet
I am a big fan of using low to moderate oven heat to produce remarkably tender roasts. The problem with this method is that you don&#;t get a lot of surface browning. One easy solution is to begin by searing the surface of the roast in a cast-iron skillet on top of the stove. Once the top and sides are handsomely browned, set the roast right side-up in the skillet, slide it into the heated oven, and let it do its thing.
I also like to use my favorite cast-iron skillet for making roast chicken. I preheat the skillet in the oven until it's good and hot, and then I plunk the chicken down into it. This ensures crispy skin on the back and thighs without having to fuss with flipping the chicken, and it shaves about 15 minutes off the roasting time.
Never use soap to clean cast-iron, and be sure to dry it thoroughly (I like to heat the cleaned pan over a low burner to ensure it&#;s dry) before putting it away.
A couple of cast-iron tips: "Never use soap to clean cast-iron, and be sure to dry it thoroughly (I like to heat the cleaned pan over a low burner to ensure it&#;s dry) before putting it away."
5. Carving board with a channel
When it comes time to carve, it&#;s helpful to have a large carving board with a channel around the outside to catch any juices before they run onto the counter. If you&#;ve let the meat rest properly after roasting (anywhere from 5 to 40 minutes, depending on its size), the juices won&#;t be gushing out of the meat, but there will still be some; you want to capture them to add to a gravy or to simply spoon over the carved roast.
Wooden boards are easier on your knives and more pleasing to the eye. A good board will be heavy enough to stay in place without shifting as you carve. After using a wooden board, wash it with soapy water, then let it dry thoroughly before putting it away in order to avoid warping. Occasionally scour the surface with steel wool to remove any build up and then treat it with a food-grade mineral oil.
If you don&#;t have a carving board, you can improvise by setting a cutting board on top of a rimmed baking sheet to catch any juices.
More: Vegetable expert Deborah Madison gives her two cents on cutting boards.
Are you interested in learning more about china electromagnetic roasting machine? Contact us today to secure an expert consultation!
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6. Roasting rack
You don&#;t need a roasting rack for every roast, but they do come in handy. Elevating the roast off the surface of the pan allows the hot oven air to circulate more freely in order to cook the roast more evenly. It also prevents poultry skin from sticking to the surface of the pan. My main caution when using a roasting rack is that the pan drippings often evaporate -- or, in the worst case, burn -- because the drippings fall onto the dry, hot pan and immediately sizzle and evaporate. The hotter the oven, the more likely the drippings are to burn, so be sure to monitor the roast carefully anytime you use a rack. If you do notice the drippings getting too dark, add liquid (wine, broth, or water) to the pan.
A roasting rack can be any sort of ovenproof rack that fits in your roasting pan and holds food at least 1 inch off the surface. A U- or V-shaped rack is especially helpful to cradle a roast turkey but not as versatile as a flat rack. The best racks are sturdy without too much intricate grid work, and a nonstick surface is helpful for easy clean-up. If you don&#;t have a proper rack, you can fashion one by crumpling a 2- to 3-foot sheet of foil into a thick rope. Then shape the rope into a spiral to set the roast on.
7. Parchment paper
What&#;s the best part of roasted vegetables? The crunchy outside bits, of course. Lining the baking sheet with parchment paper is the best way to ensure that these crunchy bits stay on the vegetables themselves and don&#;t end up stuck to the baking sheet. Using parchment paper also makes cleanup much easier.
"Lining the baking sheet with parchment paper is the best way to ensure that the crunchy bits stay on the vegetables and don&#;t end up stuck to the baking sheet."
Start by tearing a sheet of parchment to fit the pan you&#;re using. It&#;s okay if the sheet is a little large; merely press it into the corners so that it lines the entire sheet. Never crowd the vegetables -- you&#;re better off using 2 pans if needed. Parchment is also helpful for preventing delicate fish from sticking. Remember that parchment is not a good choice for meats and poultry because you want to capture drippings.
More: If Molly Stevens teamed up with Alice Medrich, they could start a Parchment Paper Fan Club.
8. An oven thermometer
Even the most best ovens can run hot or cool, so it&#;s helpful to set an oven thermometer inside the oven to give you an idea of the true temperature of your oven.
9. Butcher twine
Not every roast needs to be trussed and tied, but it&#;s helpful to have a spool of good butcher twine for when you do need to secure something like a stuffed leg of lamb or a boneless pork shoulder. Make sure the twine is 100% cotton (synthetics risk melting and tainting your food). I prefer a thicker, 24-ply twine because it&#;s less likely to cut into the meat. Most well supplied kitchen stores sell twine, and in a pinch, you can ask for a length from the person behind the meat counter or your butcher.
What roasts are you planning to make, and what tools will you use to do it? Share with us in the comments!
Your roasting-machine salesperson will likely claim that you can roast 15 kg per batch in a 15kg machine. The job of a salesperson is to sell machines, not to help you roast the best-possible coffee, so take any claims lightly. The salesperson may be technically correct, because the drum can surely fit a 15-kg batch, but a full batch may take 15:00&#;20:00 to roast, which is longer than ideal. If quality roasting is your goal, it&#;s usually safe to assume you will roast 3&#;3.5 lf batches per hour at 50%&#;70% of a machine&#;s stated capacity. Then deduct the 14%&#;20% weight lost per batch to calculate how much roasted coffee per hour a machine can produce.
For example, if one were to roast three and a half batches of 7 kg green coffee per hour in a Diedrich IR-12, with an average weight loss of 15%, the machine would produce just under 21 kg of roasted coffee per hour (3.5 * 7 kg * .85 = 20.8 kg). That&#;s more realistic than assuming the machine will roast 48 kg per hour.
Some machines are more reliable than others. Machines with fewer parts, fewer high-tech features, and heavier builds tend to be more durable and reliable. Older, simpler roasters, such as the fabled UG-series Probats are examples of rugged, low-tech machines built to last. Of course, all design decisions entail tradeoffs. Some modern technology may lack reliability but make quality roasting easier and more repeatable. Again, ask other users about reliability before buying&#; I&#;m sure most roasters would be happy to share their experiences, especially if they have complaints! While roasters are not always objective about their own roast quality, they tend to be somewhat objective about the reliability of their machines.
Many brands may not offer service or support in your country. Further, some companies offer poor support once you have paid for your roaster. I won&#;t publicly discuss which companies, in my experience, neglect their customers, but I implore you to ask other users of a brand about service quality before you put a deposit on a machine. Even if you have a pleasant initial sales experience with a company, that does not guarantee future service quality.
This may seem like a trivial consideration, but if you&#;re going to spend 20&#;40 hours per week using a roaster, a well-designed user interface is important. The interface isn&#;t just about convenience and comfort, it can also affect roast quality and repeatability. For example, machines that require you to repeatedly tap an up- or down-button to change the gas setting can be tedious and slow to respond. In comparison, a machine with an analog gas dial or a smart touchscreen is more responsive, makes it easier to replicate curves, and can be a pleasure to operate. Other ease-of-use considerations involve having large, well-positioned digital manometers, timers, and temperature readouts.
You may want to consider aesthetics if you are installing a machine for use in a retail cafe or other public space. A beautifully refurbished vintage machine may make a nicer impression than a budget, modern machine.
I discussed this topic in detail in The Coffee Roaster&#;s Companion, but will repeat the basics here. Common architectures include classic-drum roasters, indirectly fired roasters, recirculating roasters, and fluid-bed roasters. Each design has pros and cons.
Classic drum roasters: In these machines a drum rotates above a gas flame, and a fan pulls hot air from the burner through the drum and out of the roaster. Most smaller machines are classic drum roasters. Classic drum roasters get the job done, though many models provide too much conductive heat transfer, due to having a thin single-walled drum or an improper distance between the burner and drum. If too much heat is transferred to the beans via direct contact with the drum, coffee will taste harsher and less delicate. If you choose a classic drum roaster, I suggest you seek a machine with a double-walled drum and a burner with sufficient btu/hr (or kj/hr) for your needs. Compared to other designs, classic drum roasters offer good thermal stability but slower responses to gas changes.
Indirectly heated drum roasters: In these machines the burner chamber is separated from the drum and hot air passes from the burner chamber through the drum. The design allows the drum&#;s surface to remain cooler because the flame is not in contact with the drum. Indirectly heated roasters are more difficult to control than classic drum roasters, because they require skillful management of airflow, while classic drum roasters rarely require much, if any, airflow adjustment.
Recirculation roasters: These machines recirculate a portion of the roasting exhaust air back through the burner and roasting chamber. Such machines are energy-efficient but often run the risk of imparting smokey or polluted flavors on coffee. To avoid smoke taint, it&#;s important to heat the recirculated air to a sufficiently high (afterburner-level) temperature before passing it through the drum.
Fluid-bed roasters: These machines rely on a bed of rising hot air to circulate the beans and keep the beans aloft. Fluid-bed roasters eliminate the risk of conductive-heat damage, and are usually capable of developing beans well in short amounts of time. While there is no theoretical downside to fluid-bed roasters, in practice their control systems are usually too simplistic to fulfill the machines&#; potential. Given the current, rapid evolution in roast-control and data-logging software, I expect the utility and popularity of fluid-bed roasters to grow rapidly in the near future.
None of the features listed below are necessary to roast a good batch of coffee, but each may contribute to improved roast quality or repeatability.
Double drum (applies only to classic drum roasters) and powerful burner: The foundation of a good classic drum roaster is its burner and drum. As noted previously, burner output determines a machine&#;s true capacity. Double drums allow for faster and hotter roasting with less risk of tipping or scorching. Make drum quality and burner output your first two concerns when choosing a classic drum roaster. You can easily replace or upgrade fans, valves, ducts, etc, but you cannot easily replace a drum, and upgrading a burner can be expensive.
Variable-speed-drive (VSD) fan: As long as your roaster&#;s fan provides a reasonable amount of draw, you don&#;t need a variable-speed fan to produce good roasts. But without a VSD fan, it&#;s impossible to maintain consistent airflow levels day to day. The combination of a digital air-pressure manometer and a VSD fan is essential for expert-level roast repeatability.
Air manometer (aka drum-pressure manometer): A manometer in the duct between the roasting drum and exhaust fan is a relatively new, worthwhile addition to a roaster. The manometer reads pressure, not flow, but that pressure reading correlates with airflow. Using the same fan setting every day does not ensure consistent roasting because airflow may vary day to day with the weather and other factors. Having an air-pressure manometer helps one know how to adjust the fan to provide consistent airflow every batch. (Note: directly measuring airflow requires installing probes in the exhaust duct, but the probes get dirty too quickly during roasting to work effectively. Using an air-pressure manometer is the best current option to monitor and maintain consistent airflow batch to batch. However, the relationship between pressure and flow will shift slowly as the ducts get dirty, so frequent chimney cleaning is critical.)
High-resolution gas manometer: Most roasting machines come with small, cheap analog manometers that offer imprecise gas-pressure measurements. I recommend replacing your stock analog manometer with a high-resolution digital manometer. Analog manometers may be aesthetically pleasing, but they make discernment of precise readings too difficult.
Proper probes and probe locations: To be a great roaster by today&#;s standards, one needs better green, lighter roasts, quality data collection, precise controls, and software to track and analyze the data. To ensure adequate data collection, insist on having a bean probe and an environmental probe, each with diameters of 2.5 mm&#; 4 mm. An inlet-temperature probe is helpful but not critical.
The optimal bean probe location in most machines is as follows:
The probe&#;s tip should be 3&#;5 cm from the inside of the machine&#;s faceplate.
The probe&#;s tip should be 3&#;5 cm from the inner drum edge. (2 cm is ok for machines with capacity of 1 kg or less.)
The probe tip should be in the heart of the bean pile, even when roasting very small batches. If the probe is too high in the drum or too close to the center axle, it may not be immersed in the bean pile of very small batches. Proper probe location should provide quality data for batches as small as 20% capacity.
Paying for a machine: Manufacturers typically require the buyer to deposit 50% of the machine&#;s price upon ordering, with the balance due upon shipment of the machine. The problem with such arrangements is that once a manufacturer has your deposit, he or she may lose motivation to deliver your machine on time. Salespeople routinely promise a machine in three months, secure a deposit, and then ship the machine six to nine months later, claiming unavoidable delays. The buyer is helpless as he or she pays rent on an empty roastery and loses money waiting for the machine to arrive. I have seen such delays happen on fully half of my clients&#; orders. I strongly suggest insisting on a sales-contract clause guaranteeing delivery by a certain date, with a penalty against the manufacturer for late delivery.
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