What creates good tool-holding power on a taper

I tried to make a post and I think I lost it. I know I lost it I just don't know where...
I'll try again.....There was a company in Cincinnati that manufactured a milling machine that did not have drive keys in the spindle. Theser machines were 40 and 50 cat V flange tooling. They relied on the taper to locate and hold the tool in position. This allowed them to start the tool change sequence before the spindle was completely stopped. The tool holders were placed in the tool carousel at random regarding the slots in the flange.
This system worked rather well, They had wrecks and spun tools however, every machine is capable or having wrecks and spinning tools with drive keys and w/o drive keys.
I think the "drive keys" are misnamed, should be called locater keys for tool change and boring bar retracting out of a hole after M05.
If the tapers match, they will not slip during normal machining operations. Ofcourse, we have to consider the clamping force of the draw bar assembly.
When an immovable object is hit with an irrestable force, the tool will spin, the drive keys will fly away and the bolts will be sheared off. Like the other post said, when the tool jams against the keys, the stuff has already hit the moving blade and it is time to say aw sh__t, there goes all my atta boys.
The flywheel on every Briggs engine is held in place with a taper and a lead key for location....
We all know what

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The tapers are sized #1 through #6, #6 being the largest. The drills are held in the socket by friction, basically a press fit. The harder you tap them into the socket, the tighter they hold. The tang on the end is called an ejection tang. It is there only to extract the drill from the socket by way of a drift. The drift looks like a wedge.

Despite what everyone who has never used one thinks, the tang does not have anything to do with turning the drill. I have used these drills with the tang broke off and they hold just fine, however extracting them is a chore.

Having a clean, burr free socket and drill shank is very important. The slightest bit of dirt, or a small burr can cause the drill to spin in the socket (which will shear the tang off). Also, the tang is made of harder steel and forge welded to the shank of the drill (the good ones anyway) so it will shear off cleanly and not shatter the drill shank, which might damage the socket.

Even after 150 years or so, this is still the most simple, tough, and reliable system for holding a large drill.
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This is a frame drill I use at work. It has a #2 Morse taper.The tapers are sized #1 through #6, #6 being the largest. The drills are held in the socket by friction, basically a press fit. The harder you tap them into the socket, the tighter they hold. The tang on the end is called an ejection tang. It is there only to extract the drill from the socket by way of a drift. The drift looks like a wedge.Despite what everyone who has never used one thinks, the tang does not have anything to do with turning the drill. I have used these drills with the tang broke off and they hold just fine, however extracting them is a chore.Having a clean, burr free socket and drill shank is very important. The slightest bit of dirt, or a small burr can cause the drill to spin in the socket (which will shear the tang off). Also, the tang is made of harder steel and forge welded to the shank of the drill (the good ones anyway) so it will shear off cleanly and not shatter the drill shank, which might damage the socket.Even after 150 years or so, this is still the most simple, tough, and reliable system for holding a large drill.

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