May. 13, 2024
When it comes to jewelry metals, jewelry lovers are often faced with an array of choices, each possessing unique qualities and suitability for different types of jewelry and personal preferences (source: Google Search Snippet). Whether you’re captivated by the allure of white gold, enchanted by the blush of rose gold, drawn to the classic gleam of silver, or tempted by the rare luster of platinum, understanding each metal's distinct characteristics is essential. Moreover, alternative metals like titanium and tungsten have carved out their own niche in jewelry design. With this guide, we’ll help you navigate through your choices to find the perfect metal for your next jewelry masterpiece.
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Jewelry is the most common reason consumers own gold today.
About 78% of gold consumed each year is made into jewelry. It has been one of the primary uses for the metal, because of its beauty and durable properties.
There are 2 main systems for measuring the purity of gold. The most commonly used in the United States is the karat system. Karats express the purity of gold in fractions of 24. For example: Pure gold is denoted 24 karat gold or 24k, all 24 parts are gold. Gold purity is also measured using the millesimal fineness system. This system denotes the purity of gold alloys by parts per thousand of pure metal by mass in the alloy. For example, a gold alloy containing 75% gold is denoted 750.
The process of alloying or mixing other metals with pure 24k gold creates a harder more durable metal alloy, and can also change the color. The types of metals commonly used are nickel, palladium, copper, zinc, and silver.
18K or 750 – it is 18 parts gold & 6 parts other metals
14K or 585 – it is 14 parts gold & 10 parts other metals
10K or 417 – it is 10 parts gold & 14 parts other metals
The legal standard is to stamp all gold jewelry with the metal purity. The minimum purity to be called gold jewelry varies by country, and is 10k in the United States.
As we all know, the color of pure gold is a beautiful yellow color, but karat gold jewelry is available in colors other than yellow, for example white and rose. So, how is white gold or rose gold created? As we mentioned before, other metals are mixed with pure gold to create the metal alloys used in jewelry manufacturing, and these other metals not only strengthen the durability of the metal, but can also change the color.
White gold is extremely popular and is an alloy of pure gold and at least one white metal. White metals frequently used are nickel, palladium, and manganese to name a few. White gold is almost always rhodium plated to achieve the bright white finish desired on jewelry items. Rhodium is a member of the platinum family of metals and is applied to white gold using an electroplating process. Rhodium can wear off over time with normal wear and tear, especially on rings, but can easily be reapplied as part of a basic clean and polish service.
Rose gold has gained popularity in recent years, especially in bridal jewelry and is also known as pink gold. The rose gold alloy is usually a mix of pure gold, copper, and silver. Copper is the metal that creates the rose or pink color in gold alloy.
Platinum is rare and one of the most valuable precious metals, also known as one of the noble metals. It was deemed “the only metal fit for kings” by King Louis XVI of France. It is favored by jewelers for three key properties: durability, weight, and malleability. These properties make platinum an excellent choice for bridal jewelry and create a secure setting for diamonds and other precious gemstones. Many solitaire diamond engagement rings are made of 14k or 18k gold, but the head holding the diamond is made of platinum.
Therefore, it does not require special plating processes to keep the beautiful white finish. It is mixed with other metals to create either 900 platinum, a 90% pure platinum metal alloy, or 950 platinum, a 95% pure platinum metal alloy. Both are used in jewelry manufacturing. Platinum is resistant to corrosion, so it does not tarnish. It is also naturally hypoallergenic, which is ideal for those with sensitive skin.
Platinum has a very high melting point which makes it is very difficult to work with and for that reason many jewelers do not like to work with platinum. Today, laser welding is frequently used to size or repair platinum rings and jewelry.
Platinum is associated with luxury and prestige. Many famous gemstones are set in a platinum setting, one example is the Hope Diamond, and the famous Faberge’ Easter Eggs from the late 1800’s were created using platinum.
Pure silver is a very soft metal with a millesimal fineness of 99.9%, therefore it is usually alloyed with other metals. Sterling silver is the most common silver alloy used in jewelry manufacturing, which is 92.5% pure silver and 7.5% other metals, usually copper for hardness and strength. Many jewelers avoid working on sterling silver, because it is a softer metal which makes it more difficult to work on. The hallmark or stamp to identify sterling silver is 925 or sterling.
This is caused by the exposure to common components like atmospheric conditions and pollution, but the tarnish can easily be removed with a silver polishing cloth and in some cases, it requires the services of a professional jeweler. Most consumers don’t like the polishing process needed to keep their sterling silver jewelry looking like new, so many jewelry manufacturers apply an anti-tarnish coating to their products.
Sterling silver jewelry is available in all price ranges from simple light weight rings, earrings, chains, and bracelets to high end luxury pieces. Many of the luxury jewelry brands today carry sterling silver collections within their jewelry assortments, for example Tiffany & Co, Gucci, and David Yurman. The affordability of sterling silver allows more consumers to own a branded luxury jewelry item.
Alternative metals are used in the manufacturing of all types of jewelry including chains, bracelets, pendants, earrings, and even watches. The term alternative is referencing an alternative to the more traditional metals found in most fine jewelry assortments – platinum, gold, or silver.
The most common use of alternative metals is in wedding bands, and they are frequently referred to as alternative metal bands. The three alternative metals Tungsten Carbide, Titanium and Stainless Steel, described below are the most popular and are very affordable, but cannot be sized. If one of these alternative metals is going to be your choice for your wedding band, be sure to plan ahead, because it may need to be ordered in your size for that special day.
This metal has a nice heavy feel to it, but can fracture or shatter if dropped. Its natural color is gray, however it can be coated with an industrial material to create a black or white finish. The black and white coating is scratch resistant, but not as much as the highly scratch resistant natural tungsten. An additional benefit, it is hypoallergenic. This metal can be engraved, however, once it is engraved, the engraving cannot be removed.
This metal is 3-4 times stronger than stainless steel, but lighter than aluminum. It is a natural gray color, and is also hypoallergenic. It may scratch and show signs of wear over time, but it can be cleaned and polished to look like new.
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Suggested reading:This is one of the most affordable of the alternative metals. It is both scratch resistant and hypoallergenic. Over time stainless steel can lose its original shine, but just like Titanium it can be cleaned and polished to restore its bright finish.
Wedding bands, bracelets, and watches made with these alternative metals get more wear and tear than all other jewelry items since they are worn on the hands and wrists, so be sure to have them professionally cleaned and polished periodically to keep them looking their best.
Updated 10/11/22
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Choosing the right metal for your ring is next to choosing the right stone. The wedding ring metal can influence the style of your ring, yes, but it can also influence the durability of your ring. If you’ve already settled on a silver-colored band, kudos to you, but your decision-making isn’t over yet. There are a few different metal types that can give you the same or similar appearance but differ greatly when it comes to strength, shine, and cost. Today, we’re talking about the difference between titanium and platinum, but if you’re curious about other metals, check out our comparison of palladium vs platinum on our blog. Explore these options with us below to decide which metal is right for you.
Platinum is a popular choice for wedding rings, but what actually is it?
Platinum is an extremely rare and precious metal. It is also one of the strongest metals available. Unlike other metals such as sterling silver and gold, platinum jewelry is mostly pure platinum. However, because of platinum’s strength, most platinum jewelry is made up of 85-95% platinum with the remaining parts coming from palladium, copper, iridium, or cobalt alloys to make the metal more malleable and suitable for more jewelry designs. Because of this, platinum jewelry including engagement rings and wedding bands is hypoallergenic, which makes them a great option for anyone with metal allergies.
In terms of what it looks like, platinum has a silvery-white metal color that looks beautiful with any diamond, or gemstone, or on its own as a solid band. Fun fact: white gold, which also has a silvery-white color, was actually created to mimic the look of platinum, and preserve the rare and precious metal.
All of these characteristics make a platinum engagement ring a luxe and durable choice. It not only looks beautiful but will also stand the test of time.
The con? Due to its rarity, platinum can be relatively expensive. This is important to keep in mind when shopping. If you have already allocated most of your engagement ring budget to the stone or plan on doing so, you may want to opt for a less expensive metal. While you may not be able to afford a band made entirely of platinum upfront, you can take advantage of its strength by securing your stone with platinum prongs. Then again, since platinum requires less maintenance over the years, in the long run, it can be an affordable option. For some guidance on how to best pair platinum, check out our blog on the best platinum ring settings. When paired with a band made of a less valuable metal such as white gold, you’ll save money without affecting the overall look of the ring or putting your center stone at risk.
Titanium is a lesser-known metal that only became popular for wedding bands relatively recently.
Titanium is a metal that was first used in industrial settings because of its incredible strength. Thanks to its ability to withstand everyday wear and tear and incredibly lightweight feel, Titanium has become a popular choice for men’s rings. A titanium wedding band isn’t just suitable for men, though, it is also a great option for women’s wedding bands.
In addition to being strong and lightweight, titanium is also a completely hypoallergenic metal, unlike yellow gold or white gold, which are often made with metal alloys that can cause reactions in those with sensitive skin. Fun fact: it’s even used in metal body replacement parts because of its purity and strength.
While it’s not a new metal, it is new to wedding jewelry. Titanium has a mostly silver color so it quickly became a less-expensive metal alternative to platinum when the color of platinum became extremely popular for engagement and wedding rings back in the 1990s. Beyond wedding bands and engagement rings though, titanium isn’t a popular choice for other types of jewelry because it’s too tough to mold into intricate designs, even when combined with other metal alloys.
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